10 Historic Fashion Grails From Martin Margiela’s Personal Archive Sale

Martin Margiela has always been one of the most elusive figures in fashion, largely refusing to be photographed and often shrouding his models in masks. That mystique has only grown since the influential Belgian designer left his eponymous label in 2009 to pursue a career as an artist. So when Margiela announced earlier this year that he would be auctioning off a slew of pieces from his personal archives, it came as a major surprise.

The auction—which will be held in Paris on July 9 through Maurice Auction, following a public exhibition from July 4 through 8—offers a rare glimpse into the enigmatic icon’s private world and creative process. The catalog totals nearly 200 items, ranging from personal effects and prototypes to artwork and clothing direct from his wardrobe. The pieces tell the story of Margiela’s long career, beginning in the years before he launched his house, through his tenure as creative director of women’s ready-to-wear at Hermès, and ending during the pandemic, when he revisited some of his most iconic fashion designs through his art.

As a result, the collection feels more like a retrospective exhibition than a closet sale—a chance to explore the themes of identity, anonymity, and deconstruction that the 69-year-old has spent a lifetime exploring. In case you aren’t able to make it to the public showing in Paris this week, here are 10 of the coolest pieces from Martin Margiela’s personal archive auction.

Margiela’s Personal Blouse

While Margiela’s signature white coats are often called “lab coats,” they were actually inspired by the blouses worn backstage by runway models between outfits. This one has the mythic designer’s name written on it.

Hermès Initial Bag

Margiela’s first bag for Hermès remains a highly coveted design among fashion obsessives.

Courtesy of Maurice Auction